Great Ocean Road

25 November Robe

After a delightful five nights soaking up the diverse offerings of Adelaide, from perfectly manicured  parks and a charming river cruise to a bustling nightlife. I was ready to embark on the next leg of my Australian adventure.

My journey started with a visit to Hahndorf, a quaint German town just 30 minutes southeast of Adelaide. Founded by 19th-century Lutheran migrants, Hahndorf charmed me instantly with its German-style architecture and artisanal foods. A quick stop for a  coffee and a  bratwurst provided the perfect fuel for the road ahead.

The drive to Robe was filled with the interesting landscapes of Australian bush. My stay at the historic Robe House B&B was equally memorable, offering a cozy retreat steeped in local heritage.

Dinner at the Caledonian Inn was an unexpected find. The friendly staff guided me through an exquisite menu, where I indulged in nori scallops with a black bean vinaigrette and crispy nori, paired with a fresh local Chardonnay. The main course, a chimichurri veal fillet served rare, was perfectly complemented by a Cabernet Sauvignon from the Adelaide Hills. As dinner wound down, the inn began to buzz with an energetic crowd, signalling the start of a lively night for many, though a timely conversation with the doorman hinted it was the perfect moment for a quieter retreat.

26 November Port Fairy

After a light breakfast, I continued my travels along National Highway 1. Often referred to as the 'Big Lap', this iconic highway circumnavigates coastal mainland Australia, spanning roughly 14,500 kilometres (9,000 miles) and passing through each state capital. It holds the distinction of being the longest national highway in the world.

Despite the overcast weather, my spirits remained high. I spent the night at the charming Seacombe House Hotel and enjoyed a delightful dinner at the quaint Merrijig Inn.

For an authentic small-town experience, Port Fairy is unparalleled. Nestled on Victoria's Great Ocean Road, it sits at the mouth of the Moyne River on a headland east of Portland Bay, an inlet of the Indian Ocean. Originally settled in 1835 and briefly named Belfast, it was later renamed after the ship Fairy, which had sought shelter in its harbour in 1810.

The Merrijig Inn holds historical significance as one of the oldest surviving hotels in Victoria. Its location, facing the site of the original jetty, is integral to understanding the development of Port Fairy in the 1840s, following its officially sanctioned settlement.

The Inn features a cosy seating area where guests can enjoy a drink or sit by the bar, while the restaurant is somewhat larger and more formal. The waiting staff were exceptionally accommodating; although I initially had a reservation for bar seating, they promptly found a table upon my request. The beef tartare starter with salad was generously portioned and incredibly fresh, and the seabass with roast vegetables was cooked to perfection.

27 November Apollo Bay

Breakfast was at a charming little bakery in Koroit, about 15 minutes out of town. The coffee was excellent. Interestingly, Australians don't recognise an Americano with hot milk, but they can whip up a flat white in no time. While there, I started reading the local newspaper and found an article on the local wild emus quite amusing. It described how these large birds roam freely on the outskirts of town. Not more than five minutes after leaving Koroit, I spotted an emu on the side of the road!

For the night, I stayed at the local Best Western, which was centrally located and just a short walk from the Great Ocean Road Brewhouse. My meal there was quite basic: a calamari starter followed by a Scottish steak, all washed down with a pint of Otway Pale Ale. The 12 Apostles was certainly a highlight.

I briefly met a local named Ben, who was minding his own business until he picked up my accent. I introduced myself. Ben, a local paramedic on leave, was enjoying a pint of the black stuff from the Emerald Isle. We chatted for sometime before calling it day.

Apollo Bay was quaint, but if I find myself in the area again, I think I would continue on to Lorne. There's more to do there, and it offers a better choice of restaurants and bakeries.