Bilbao 13 - 16 June

It’s amazing how much a number plate can tell you about the world we live in.

Whilst a group of us approach a rural Swiss border many years ago, ready for the usual routine of passport checks and stern looks, the border guards, in a display of unbridled enthusiasm, completely ignore our face and zero in on our number plates. Like a group of schoolchildren spotting an ice cream van at lunch time, they swarm around the back of my bike. British plates? We must be good chaps! With a wave and a smile, they let us through. Little did they know, among us was a rogue Swede cleverly disguised as a Brit! If only they’d checked the passports, they might have discovered our Nordic stowaway.

But the fun doesn’t stop there. Just the other day, I found myself at a fuel station in rural Portugal. As I pulled up, I caught the eye of a group of middle aged gentlemen lounging at a nearby café bar. With the precision and coordination of a synchronised swim team, they all got up, approached my bike, and inspected my number plate. British? Ah, all is well in the universe. They nodded approvingly and returned to their coffees, leaving me to fuel up in peace. It’s as if my number plate had done all the talking.

It’s funny, really. The whole experience reminds me of dogs meeting for the first time. They skip the formalities, head straight to the rear, and give a good sniff before deciding if they’ll be friends. Humans, it seems, are not so different after all.

These little moments make my journeys all the more entertaining. Who knew that a simple number plate could act as an international passport, a conversation starter, and a source of endless amusement?

Next time you’re traveling, whether by motorcycle or otherwise, keep an eye out for these little quirks of human behaviour. You might just find yourself laughing at the unexpected simplicity of it all.

13 June 65 mile Durango to Bilbao

Following a late checkout in Durango, I arrived in Bilbao early afternoon for my three night stay at the centrally located Carlton Hotel.

Dinner had already been reserved some weeks earlier, which was a relief considering the best places to eat generally get booked up quickly.

A friend of mine from the UK had flown in to join me, as they too are a big food fan and enjoy travel. Dinner on our first evening was at the Al Margen Restaurant. The restaurant is only a short walk from the hotel, however, we took the scenic route, taking in some local culture along the way.

The relaxed and informal restaurant, located alongside the estuary next to San Antón bridge, features a decor of highly original stone columns that give it plenty of character, alongside bare tables and a semi-open kitchen at the entrance. The young chefs at the helm, Adrián Leonelli and Pablo Valdearcos, have created a concise à la carte menu. A tasting menu is also an option. We chose the Menu Bib Gourmand, which included three pre-starters and six main courses, all of which represented a good balance of fish and meat dishes, all for €42pp.

14 June

We began our day with breakfast at a local cafe situated just across from our hotel. After enjoying our morning croissant and coffee, we made our way to the Guggenheim Bilbao for our mid morning reservation.

Guggenheim - Bilbao

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, designed by the renowned Frank Gehry, is a masterpiece of modern architecture. Located by the Nervión River in Bilbao, Spain, it has stood as an icon of contemporary art since its opening in 1997. Gehry's innovative use of titanium, glass, and limestone makes the building itself a spectacular work of art.

Green Couple 1964

Frank Gehry, a Canadian-American architect celebrated for his distinctive style, envisioned the museum with bold and unconventional forms. The building's undulating curves and reflective surfaces harmonize beautifully with the cityscape, rendering it visually stunning.

Andy Warhol Self Portrait 1986

The Guggenheim Bilbao has played a pivotal role in the cultural and economic revitalisation of Bilbao. Gehry's design exemplifies the transformative power of art and architecture. The museum's remarkable success, often referred to as the "Bilbao Effect," has drawn millions of visitors and significantly boosted the local economy.

Interior with Mirrored Wall 1991

Inside, the museum hosts an ever-changing collection of modern and contemporary art, featuring acclaimed artists such as Jeff Koons, Richard Serra, and Anish Kapoor.

Gehry's creation continues to inspire and remains a symbol of artistic and architectural excellence.

Girl with Tear I 1977

For lunch, we discovered Serantes III, a delightful tapas bar nearby. We enjoyed a wonderful meal, starting with Iberian ham that, though it appeared greasy, was actually dry and bursting with flavour.

The grilled prawns, served with their shells on, were perfectly cooked, as was the scallop dome in garlic.

A slice of tortilla, slightly undercooked to perfection, was just how I like it. An excellent recommendation of a glass of vino blanco complemented our meal beautifully.

Lasai Restaurant, named after the Basque word for "calm" or "tranquillity," truly lives up to its name.

Tucked away on a narrow street in the city centre, just a few meters from the river. The decor is ever-changing, thanks to the varied art exhibitions hosted here, adding a dynamic and fresh feel to the dining experience. The intimate setting and tasteful interior design create a perfect backdrop for a relaxed and enjoyable meal.

The service at Lasai was exceptional. From the moment we arrived, the staff were attentive and professional, providing detailed explanations of the menu and offering thoughtful recommendations on wine selection.

Each course was presented with care and the timing was impeccable. The staff's knowledge of the dishes and their enthusiasm for the cuisine added to the overall enjoyment of our dining experience.

We opted for the seven-course Crystal Menu. Each dish was perfectly crafted to such a high standard, showcasing the region's flavours with a contemporary twist.

Drunken blue crab trilogy.

Roasted scallops with white coconut garlic sauce, dried tomato, and date tartare.

Grilled Beg handi stuffed with mushroom ragout and pig's trotters with a cod foam.

Roasted hake with citrus and sweet lacquered, creamy green sauce with sautéed tubers and a hint of spice.

Boneless and crispy suckling pig with cherry jam and acid shoots with ginger vinaigrette.

Spicy mango and chocolate iced cookie.

Goxua (Traditional Basque dessert): A traditional dessert of whipped cream, sponge cake, pastry cream, and caramelised sugar, embodying the essence of Basque sweetness.

While Lasai is undoubtedly a high end dining experience, the quality of the food, the creativity of the dishes, and the exceptional service make it well worth the price. Each course of the Crystal Menu was thoughtfully crafted and generously portioned, providing excellent value for a gourmet meal.

Dining at Lasai Restaurant was a remarkable experience. This discreet gem in the heart of the city is a must visit for anyone looking to explore the tastes of the Basque region.

15 June

After a light breakfast at a local, authentic cafe bar, we headed for the old town. Our first stop was the Erriberako Merkatua, a historic fresh food market. This vibrant marketplace offers a wide array of foods, including produce, fish, meats, bread, and pickles. I love places like this and could easily spend hours wandering through the stalls, which we did, admiring the fresh fish, meats, and vegetables on display. The locals are passionate about their produce, and their lively interactions are a joy to witness. If only I could speak Spanish or Basque, I could understand the fascinating conversations happening around me!

Situated within the market is a food hall selling pintxos of all kinds. We purchased a small selection and shared them over a drink. After indulging in the delicious pintxos, we found ourselves thirsty and decided to head to Plaza Nueva.

Plaza Nueva, the main square of the old town, is lined with tapas and pintxos bars, as well as restaurants tucked inside the arch-lined colonnades. The square, which opened in 1851 after half a century of construction, remains a key gathering spot during festivals and concerts. On Sundays, a modest market of used books, coins, and a few antiques lines the perimeter. We grabbed a buffet-table and enjoyed a lazy hour or so over a couple of glasses of wine.

After our leisurely break, we continued to explore the old town with its charming shops and restaurants. We eventually found ourselves seated outside Bar Baster, a small community tapas bar full of locals which was busy earlier in the day.

Our day was filled with the authentic sights, sounds, and tastes of the old town, making it a memorable part of our journey. If you ever find yourself in the area, be sure to visit these spots for an unforgettable experience!

Our final night in Bilbao saw us dine at Restaurant Kimtxu. A somewhat surprising Asian “taberna” in Bilbao, with an informal atmosphere to make you feel at home with interesting flavours from around the world. Owner chef Iván Abril rethinks oriental cooking through techniques acquired in London and Hong Kong, but always using superb Basque products and varying the dishes he offers in line with seasonal ingredients.

We chose the seven course menu Kimtxu with two wine recommendations from the waiting staff.

Tuna Tartar with Spicy Egg Yolk Dressing and Paprika Crumbs.

Eel and Aubergine Nigiri-Croquette with Blue Cheese Cream.

Banh-Mi: Vietnamese Brioche with Pork Cheeks, Pickles, and Grated Foie-Gras.

Vegetables and Mushrooms Wok with Green Bean Sauce and Cashew Nuts.

Thai Green Curry with Sea Bass, Fresh Peas, and Jasmine Rice.

Beef Terrine with Celeriac and Green Apple Salad, Kimchi Dressing.

White Chocolate and Ginger Ganache with Passion Fruit Soup and Coffee Streusel.

The pricing at Kimtxu reflects the quality and creativity of the dishes, making it a worthwhile mid week dining experience for those with a demanding taste for quality at an affordable price.