Gries am Brenner 15 Sep
Konstance to Gries am Brenner 202 mile
Over breakfast, we mulled over the available routes. With the Alberg Tunnel closed for maintenance and not due to reopen until November 24, our options were limited. Konstanz, bordering Switzerland to the south, presented us with two main choices.
Option one: ride a few short miles in to Switzerland before crossing into Austria, heading straight for the Alberg Pass.
Option two: take a ferry from Konstanz to Meersburg, travel east of Lake Konstanz via the B31/B204, and pick up the B200/198 and Fernpass. This would eventually connect us to the A12 at Telfs, from where we could speed towards Innsbruck and meet the Brenner Pass to Gries am Brenner.
Both routes meant we needed a toll sticker - Switzerland charges an annual fee of €48, while Austria offers a more wallet-friendly €4.50 for motorcycles, covering 10 days of motorway use. In the end, we chose the ferry to Meersburg.
On the ferry, we struck up a conversation with a German biker who was returning home to Meersburg after a family celebration. He confirmed that while the Alberg Pass was open, the recent snowfall had dropped the temperature to -3°C, making our chosen route the wiser option.
However, it seemed we weren’t the only ones with this idea. Traffic was heavy for the majority of the 200-mile journey, with long delays and congestion… a common occurrence on Sundays, apparently.
After a fuel and hydration break near the small Austrian village of Stanzach, we set off again only to be pulled over by the Austrian police. Initially, we thought it was just a routine stop to check our travel papers, but things quickly escalated.
The officers were particularly interested in our V5 documents, specifically the section detailing the noise levels of our bikes. Unbeknown to us, certain roads near Austria's national parks have a noise limit of 95db from April 1st to October 31st. Luckily, my bike passed the test with a reading of 90db. But my friend wasn’t so fortunate. His Ducati Panigale V2, with its modified exhaust, registered a deafening 102db. The result? A hefty €220 fine on the spot.
Even the Austrian Police use card machines
Our adventure continued as we headed south along the A12 from Telfs, with high hopes for the scenic route ahead. However, the traffic on the Brenner Autobahn was thick and solid, with traffic crawling along as we approached the Tolls. The tolls were a minor break in the slow progress, but once past them, the ride remained sluggish.
Despite the delays, we finally arrived at our destination - the Jolly Austrian, feeling a mix of relief and exhaustion from the long journey. Within minutes, Gerhard poured us a pint of magic.
Our choice to take the ferry and avoid the snowy pass was vindicated, though the slow traffic and unexpected fine were reminders that no journey goes entirely as planned. It’s all part of the adventure!
Gasthof Alte Post - A Warm Austrian Welcome with Family Tradition
Tucked away in the charming village of Gries am Brenner on the old Brenner Pass, the Gasthof Alte Post offers travellers a slice of authentic Austrian hospitality. Owned and operated by the Vetter family for generations, this quaint three-bedroom guest house and restaurant has become a hidden gem for those seeking comfort, tradition, and exceptional food.
My relationship with this cozy guesthouse dates back to June 2001, when I first stumbled upon it while returning from a trip to Italy. Back then, I was staying just down the road but wanted a good restaurant for dinner. There were four of us, and we happened upon the Gasthof Alte Post by chance. The meal we had that evening was unforgettable, so much so that I have returned year after year whenever traveling through Austria en route to Italy or Croatia.
The Gasthof Alte Post embodies everything you’d expect from a traditional Austrian guesthouse. It’s small, with only three rooms, but that adds to its charm. The rooms are basic but clean, offering the essential comforts a traveler might need. What truly sets the place apart, however, is the food.
The restaurant, run by Gerhard Vetter and his wife, has hardly changed its menu over the years and for good reason! The food is consistently delicious. In fact, until a few years ago, I had never even seen a menu; you simply trusted the house to serve you something fantastic, and they always delivered. Each dish reflects traditional Austrian recipes passed down through generations, prepared with care and love.
One of the things that makes Gasthof Alte Post so special is its deep-rooted family history. The Vetter family has owned and operated the guesthouse for many years. Before Gerhard, the property was managed by his mother and grandmother, ensuring that the traditions of the house were kept alive across generations. Staying here feels like stepping into a piece of living history.
If your travels ever take you near the Brenner Pass, I highly recommend stopping at the Gasthof Alte Post. Whether you're just passing through or looking for a place to rest, you're sure to receive a warm welcome from Gerhard and his family, along with a meal that will leave you more than satisfied. This is Austrian hospitality at its finest, and the Gasthof Alte Post has become one of my favourite stops on my journeys.