Itinerary
Itinerary - Basque Pico’s, Galicia, and Douro 6 - 17 June 2024
Like some travellers embarking on the ferry crossing from UK ports to Spain, the moment we arrive, it’s a frantic race southwards towards one of the northern Costas or southwest to Portugal. However, we often overlook the richness that north and northwestern Spain holds. Galicia, the Basque Country and Picos de Europe are lush and vibrant, steeped in ancient history that beckons to be explored. San Sebastián, Bilbao, and Santander boast some of the finest restaurants in Northern Spain. In my opinion, the Basque Country ranks among the premier culinary regions in Europe.
This scenario is quite reminiscent of our journeys by ferry to mainland France. It’s a frenzy escaping the port of Calais, as everyone rushes southwards towards Bordeaux, driven by the belief that the weather only improves past the city. What utter nonsense! Normandy, Brittany, and Southern Brittany are among the most charming areas of France, sadly overlooked by many travellers.
My journey begins in my home village of St Michaels in northern Lancashire, from where I will travel to Portsmouth to catch the evening ferry to Santander.
This two-night voyage will take me past the Bay of Biscay. I must admit, I am not particularly fond of ferries, and I can’t imagine how I would cope on a cruise ship for weeks at a time. I resonate with the comedian Billy Connolly's sentiment, as he once described a cruise holiday as a “floating prison with the option of drowning.”
Upon arriving 30 hours later on a Saturday morning in Santander, I will disembark and head towards Lugo. The journey is expected to take about seven hours as I plan to take in the stunning scenery of Pico’s de Europa along the way. I have a dinner reservation at Paprika that evening, which I am eagerly anticipating.
The next leg of my trip involves a shorter ride from Lugo to Santiago de Compostela, where I intend to arrive before lunch. I have dinner plans at Café De Altamira, which promises to be a delightful experience.
From Santiago, I will ride south via Chaves, crossing the border into Portugal around lunchtime. My destination is Peso da Régua in the Douro Valley, where I will stay for the night. Dinner is reserved at Castas e Pratos, renowned for its exquisite cuisine.
The following day, I leave Peso da Régua and travel along the picturesque Douro River before heading to Bragança for my next overnight stay. I have dinner reservations at the 1-star G Pousada, which I am sure will be an exceptional dining experience.
The subsequent day involves an early start for a 400-mile ride back to the Basque Country, where I will stay overnight in Durango. I am looking forward to a traditional dinner at Restaurant Gaztelua.
From Durango, I will have a relatively short ride to Bilbao, where I will stay for three nights at the rather posh ***** Hotel Carlton. My dining plans include dinners at Al Margen, Lasai, and Kimtxu. During my stay in Bilbao, I intend to visit several attractions, with the Guggenheim Museum and several Tapas/Pintxo Bars at the top of my list. I am sure my time in Bilboa will be memorable!
After my three-night stay in Bilbao, I will take a short ride back to Santander to catch a mid-afternoon ferry. This will ensure my arrival in Portsmouth around 7pm the following evening. From there, a trip up north should see me back home by midnight.