Lugo 8 June
6 June Home to Portsmouth 280 miles.
This year, I’ve been using the bike more frequently than usual, and just days before setting off, I had to deal with a recall notice from BMW Motorrad and get a new set of tyres fitted.
The morning of my tour, I loaded up the bike, having packed most of my gear the night before. To my disbelief, when I tried to start the bike, nothing happened. There was no power at all. This was definitely not the start I had hoped for. I took off my helmet and gloves, trying to figure out the problem.
After a few minutes of retracing my steps from the previous week, I noticed a flashing red light on the TFT screen. My initial thought was that the battery might be dead. I recalled replacing the key fob battery a few days earlier, so I decided to check that first, suspecting a faulty replacement.
Upon closer inspection of the fob battery, I realised it had a protective film that I hadn’t noticed before. After removing the film and reinserting the battery, I went back to the bike, tried the key, and to my relief, the bike roared to life.
Within minutes, I was on the road, ready to begin my tour.
The crossing was incredibly smooth, with clear skies the entire way. I had reserved dinner for my second night at Azul Restaurant, which offers a more formal dining experience with a generous selection of meals. I was thrilled when I was seated at a table at the bow of the ship, providing me with spectacular views through the panoramic window.
Shortly after making my dining choice, I was treated to an extraordinary sight; a pod of dolphins swimming and leaping alongside the ship. Initially, I mistook them for tuna due to their small size, but their playful jumps quickly revealed their true nature. The whole spectacle lasted about 45 minutes and added a delightful touch to my dining experience.
8 June Santander to Lugo - 274 miles.
On Saturday morning, the weather took a turn for the worse, with overcast skies, low clouds, and drizzle. It was quite a contrast to the beautiful days we had on board. As we docked, the motorcycles were the first to disembark. I was informed by a crew member that there were 380 bikes on the crossing. The sound of all the engines starting simultaneously was truly deafening. Within minutes, we all went our separate ways, some heading east to ride the Pyrenees, others going south, and some, like me, riding through the Picos de Europa.
Visibility was poor, so I didn’t take many photographs. After leaving Santander, I followed my planned route to the AS-114. However, about 40 minutes into the ride, I encountered a major road closure with no detour signs. I had to figure out an alternative route over the mountains, which included some unpaved roads. Eventually, I rejoined the road just south of Las Arenas. Despite the detour and low cloud cover, the ride through the Picos was fantastic.
Approximately 50 miles north of Lugo, I had planned to take a scenic, winding road with some altitude. Unfortunately, the visibility was so poor that I could barely see a few feet ahead. What should have been a 25-minute journey ended up taking over an hour.
Despite these challenges, the trip was excellent. The beauty of the Spanish landscape, the thrill of the ride, and the unexpected encounters made it all worthwhile.
Dinner at the fabulous Paprica, tucked away down a small alley in the centre of Lugo, was a delightful experience. The Spanish tradition of late dining meant the earliest reservation available was at 9pm, right when the restaurant opened.
Having dined here before with a larger group of twelve, I was eager to revisit and explore the menu in a more intimate setting. This time, however, the menu was accessed via a QR code. While this is not my preferred method for perusing options, Paprica's offerings are straightforward: a choice between the 6-course Menu De Temporada or the 10-course Menu Degustation. I opted for the latter, and it included the following small plates:
Snack/Appetizer of the Day: A delightful white fish dish that set a high bar for the courses to follow.
Tuna Alinao: Fresh and flavorful, with a perfect balance of seasoning.
Tiger Mussels: Plump and succulent, a true highlight of the seafood offerings.
Wild Asparagus from Ulloa: A refreshing interlude with a crisp texture and earthy flavor.
Xurelo Teriyaki: A harmonious blend of sweet and savory with expertly cooked fish.
Braised Beef Loin, Roasted Potato, and Chopped Creole: Rich and tender beef paired wonderfully with the sides.
Cheese Tasting: A variety of local cheeses that provided a delightful transition from the savory to the sweet courses.
Strawberry, Almond, Lime, and Lemon Soufflé: Light and airy, with a refreshing citrus kick.
Millville of Whipped Cream with Passion Sorbet: A decadent and satisfying finale, perfectly balancing richness with tartness.
The wine selection was equally impressive, with a small glass of mineral-rich white Paso Senorans complementing the seafood dishes beautifully, and a Jaros Copa red pairing excellently with the beef.
The intimate setting of Paprica, with its cozy and elegant decor, creates a warm and inviting atmosphere. The attention to detail in both the interior design and the presentation of the dishes enhances the overall dining experience.
The staff at Paprica were attentive and knowledgeable, providing excellent service throughout the evening. They were well versed in the menu and wine pairings, adding to the enjoyment of the meal.
Considering the quality and creativity of the dishes, along with the exceptional service and ambiance, Paprica offers excellent value for money. The 10 course Menu Degustation is worth every penny.
Dinner at Paprica was every bit as good as it sounds. The combination of expertly prepared dishes, thoughtful wine pairings, and attentive service makes this restaurant a must visit. I highly recommend Paprica to anyone looking for an unforgettable dining experience in Lugo.
