Munich 18 Sep
Salzburg to Munich 92 mile
One morning over breakfast, I found myself seated next to a young gentleman who struck up a conversation with me. He asked where I was from, and we exchanged gentle pleasantries. His name was Jairus, and he was from Israel. In his late 20s, Jairus was studying ballet and had traveled to Salzburg for three days to take his final exams.
He explained that his exams were initially scheduled months ago, but due to the ongoing conflicts in the Middle East, he had been forced to delay them. Flights in and out of major airports had been subject to delays and even cancellations, but he had managed to secure a flight to Salzburg at short notice to complete his course. His return flight was booked, yet he was concerned it might be delayed or cancelled, which would prevent him from getting home to see his wife and children.
As a rule, I tend to avoid awkward conversations about sensitive topics such as religion, politics, or war, as these are deeply rooted issues that can easily lead to misunderstandings or even offence if the wrong word is spoken. However, Jairus was very balanced in his approach. He seemed more concerned about the innocent lives caught up in the conflict than the political situation itself.
Despite the challenges he faced, Jairus’s passion for ballet and his determination to complete his exams were evident. I wished him well with his exams and a safe journey back to his family in Israel, hoping that he would be reunited with his loved ones without further delays.
BMW Museum
After a short ride to Munich, we arrived around midday, excited to visit the BMW Museum. With a few days of riding under our belts, the 1.5-mile walk from the hotel was a welcome change. Our stroll took us past the BMW Classic Factory, a place dedicated to restoring and repairing classic BMW vehicles back to their original glory.
The BMW Museum is a must-visit for any enthusiast, housing nearly every BMW car, motorcycle, and plane engine ever produced. As a proud owner of the three BMW vehicles, I was naturally drawn to the Motorrad section. The evolution of the brand, especially its near-collapse in the 1980s due to declining sales of the Boxer engine, was particularly fascinating.
BMW Motorrad launched the world's first large dual-sport motorcycle, the R80 G/S, in southern France, a move that would not only save the brand but redefine it. The GS series became synonymous with adventure riding, and it was the beginning of a new era for BMW Motorrad.
The real turning point for the BMW GS series came when Norwegian adventurer Helge Pedersen embarked on an epic journey around the world on his 1984 R80 GS. Pedersen's book, 10 Years on Two Wheels, is a testament to the durability and spirit of adventure that the GS embodies. Over six continents and 250,000 miles, Pedersen pushed the limits of what a motorcycle and rider could endure. His book inspired me when I first read it in 1998, and it has fuelled my passion for touring ever since.
Pedersen's R80 GS now sits proudly on permanent display - a symbol of resilience and adventure. A map on his website shows what appear to be country borders outlined in red, but they’re not boundaries, they are the countless miles Pedersen covered on his journey. It's a powerful visual that brings home the magnitude of his adventure and the legacy of the BMW GS.
If you’re a rider with a taste for adventure, I highly recommend visiting the BMW Museum and delving into the history that’s been crafted over the decades. And for anyone serious about long-distance riding, Pedersen's 10 Years on Two Wheels is a must-read. His story is more than just a travelogue; it’s a testament to the unyielding spirit of adventure and the unparalleled capability of the BMW GS.
Restaurant: Vinothek by Geisel,
Location: Schützenstraße,
Located in the heart of Munich, Vinothek by Geisel is a delightful fusion of rustic charm and culinary finesse. This wine bar and restaurant, nestled within the elegant Excelsior Hotel on Schützenstraße, is a true city centre gem.
Our dining experience was elevated by attentive service, delivered with a touch of humour by our knowledgeable waiter. The menu is as refined as the ambiance, showcasing a thoughtful selection of dishes that highlight seasonal ingredients.
I began with the chicken leg ravioli, which was complemented by a delightful combination of spicy spinach and nut butter. For the main, I opted for the saddle of veal, accompanied by artichokes, baked capers, and a refreshing lemon emulsion. The veal was cooked pink to perfection, tender and full of flavour, while the accompaniments added a lovely contrast of savoury and tangy notes.
Vinothek by Geisel is a fantastic find, offering superb food and excellent service in a charming setting. If you ever find yourself in Munich, this is a spot not to be missed.